Gelatine is safe to use on the skin (mentioned in previous technical files) and can be cast, or used to make moulds. It’s also reusable, cheap and easy to get hold of. Another advantage to gelatine is that you can freeze it for weeks or even months for future use.
What is silicone?
This is a soft, colourless rubber used for making prosthetics and is easily pigmented to provide realistic skin tones. It also has high elongation with dimensional stability which can be used on the skin several times. It’s often used for creating life like animals, dragons, monsters, body parts and also realistic cuts, scars, wounds, lumps and bumps. This product has been popular as a medium for moulding. It can also withstand temperatures approaching 400 degrees. You can also paint over dried silicone. Once it’s dry, you can remove it from the skin and reuse it again. Like gelatine, they’re safe and can also be re-used.
Platsil gel:
‘Platsil gels are relatively inexpensive and deliver natural flesh like results. They can be used as mould rubbers, to create prosthetic appliances. Unlike any other silicone product, it is quick and easy to use, also has a translucent colour.
This product is used by the world’s top Prosthetic technicians. It has been used in movies such as The Iron Lady, Harry Potter, Lord of The Rings and Pans Labrinth.’
http://www.mouldlife.net/platsil-gel-10-1150-p.asp (Accessed: 11 April 2016).
Another artist, Waldo Mason quotes “I used platsil gel for the creation of Ernest Manby’s body in BBC’s Ripper Street because it was soft. It provided the body with effective realism and movement.”
Gorton, N. (no date) Special FX & Modelmaking. Available at:
http://www.mouldlife.co.uk/special-fx-modelmaking-home/ (Accessed: 11 April 2016).
 |
| Example of a bullet wound mould made using silicone |
LanguageEnglishDeutsch, J.H. (2015) SFX // Bullethole. Available at:
http://www.janherms.de/portfolio/sfx-bullethole/ (Accessed: 11 April 2016).
Technical lesson six:
Model name: Grace
Skin type: dry
Skin tone: fair skin with neutral undertone
Natural eyes/contacts: natural eyes
Allergies: none
Medication: none
Any open wounds/scars, cuts etc.: none
Required products/materials: mould, Pros-aide adhesive, pro-clean (this is a gentle oily adhesive remover), Kryolan supra colour palette, wound filler, cotton buds, stipple sponge, Kensington Gore fake liquid blood, witch hazel, Kryolan translucent powder, scissors (optional), makeup brushes (powder puff and small pointy brushes, preferably non-beauty ones for the colouring).
Image reference: Prosthetic adhesive no. 2 by Kryolan - costumes wigs theater makeup and accessories (no date) Available at: https://www.mallatts.com/store/theatrical-costume-makeup/skin-adhesive-and-adhesive-remover/prosthetic-adhesive-2-by-kryolan.html (Accessed: 11 April 2016).
Step-by-step guide:
Before starting the practical, I set up my station and got rid of any bags, scarves and coats that were in the way for health and safety reasons. I then placed a towel around my model again for hygienic, health and safety reasons. Next, I ensured the area I was working on was clean (the arm). Grace had no product on her arm therefore I went straight in with the mould.
Sue had given us all a mould to work with. You may have to trim the edges of the mould with scissors however this is optional. I didn’t trim mine at all as I thought it looked more natural with rough edges rather than straight ones.
I firstly applied a small amount of the Pros-aide glue onto the area of the arm I wanted to place my mould on with a cotton bud. I also applied this same glue onto the back of the mould (ensure the wound surface is covered; go right up to the edges). Make sure you close the glue lid once you’re done using it otherwise it will dry out and go lumpy. Before placing the mould onto the skin, you have to make sure the mould (and skin) are both dry. You’ll know it’s dry once it goes clear like DUO.
After it’s dry, stick the mould onto the skin and press hard. This is really important as you don’t want it to fall off. Next, using another clean cotton bud, dip it into witch hazel and go over the edges over the mould to soften them. Do this in a downward motion.
Now, you must powder the area using the Kryolan translucent powder and a powder puff brush. After you’ve powdered, and spot a hard edge, you’ll need to go back in with the witch hazel and soften it. Ensure not put witch hazel underneath the mould as this will cause it to fall off.
Once you’re happy with the application of the mould, you can start the colouring. I first coloured the inside of the cut with black (071) supra colour using a thin pointy brush. It was also optional to use Sue’s bruise wheel from Kryolan which consisted of deep plum colours however I stuck to my supra colours. For the outer corners of the wound I mixed red (079) and the black together to achieve a dark red. I also applied red just around the cut, using a stipple sponge. I patted this on, as it irritates the skin to swish it around due to its texture. I also used my fingers to apply some of the same red on areas I thought needed colour. Ensure to blend this out for a more realistic effect.
For the final part of the colouring, I applied the fake blood and wound filler. I took some wound filler out from its pot and applied it gently to the centre of the cut (where I applied the black) using the same brush. You don’t want to go too over the top with this as then it’ll just end up looking fake. I also used some of Sue’s Kensington Gore fake liquid blood. I used a stipple sponge to apply this blood around the cut and empty areas of the arm as Sue told us to not just concentrate on the cut itself and look beyond it.
To remove this, gently peel the mould off the skin. You can wipe any excess glue from the arm using the Pros-aide adhesive remover and a cotton bud. Clean off any remaining makeup from the skin with a cleanser and wash thoroughly with water. Moisturisers can also be used after removal to prevent the skin from drying. Finally put the mould into the bin.
Reflection:
Overall, I was very proud of my work as it was my first time doing a cut using a mould. Sue gave me great feedback and said the wax is blended well into the skin. She also said the colouring of the actual cut is great itself however I could’ve applied more colour onto the rest of the arm to prevent it from looking stuck on.
Before starting the practical, I set up my station and got rid of any bags, scarves and coats that were in the way for health and safety reasons. I then placed a towel around my model again for hygienic, health and safety reasons. Next, I ensured the area I was working on was clean (the arm). Grace had no product on her arm therefore I went straight in with the mould.
Sue had given us all a mould to work with. You may have to trim the edges of the mould with scissors however this is optional. I didn’t trim mine at all as I thought it looked more natural with rough edges rather than straight ones.
I firstly applied a small amount of the Pros-aide glue onto the area of the arm I wanted to place my mould on with a cotton bud. I also applied this same glue onto the back of the mould (ensure the wound surface is covered; go right up to the edges). Make sure you close the glue lid once you’re done using it otherwise it will dry out and go lumpy. Before placing the mould onto the skin, you have to make sure the mould (and skin) are both dry. You’ll know it’s dry once it goes clear like DUO.
After it’s dry, stick the mould onto the skin and press hard. This is really important as you don’t want it to fall off. Next, using another clean cotton bud, dip it into witch hazel and go over the edges over the mould to soften them. Do this in a downward motion.
Now, you must powder the area using the Kryolan translucent powder and a powder puff brush. After you’ve powdered, and spot a hard edge, you’ll need to go back in with the witch hazel and soften it. Ensure not put witch hazel underneath the mould as this will cause it to fall off.
Once you’re happy with the application of the mould, you can start the colouring. I first coloured the inside of the cut with black (071) supra colour using a thin pointy brush. It was also optional to use Sue’s bruise wheel from Kryolan which consisted of deep plum colours however I stuck to my supra colours. For the outer corners of the wound I mixed red (079) and the black together to achieve a dark red. I also applied red just around the cut, using a stipple sponge. I patted this on, as it irritates the skin to swish it around due to its texture. I also used my fingers to apply some of the same red on areas I thought needed colour. Ensure to blend this out for a more realistic effect.
For the final part of the colouring, I applied the fake blood and wound filler. I took some wound filler out from its pot and applied it gently to the centre of the cut (where I applied the black) using the same brush. You don’t want to go too over the top with this as then it’ll just end up looking fake. I also used some of Sue’s Kensington Gore fake liquid blood. I used a stipple sponge to apply this blood around the cut and empty areas of the arm as Sue told us to not just concentrate on the cut itself and look beyond it.
To remove this, gently peel the mould off the skin. You can wipe any excess glue from the arm using the Pros-aide adhesive remover and a cotton bud. Clean off any remaining makeup from the skin with a cleanser and wash thoroughly with water. Moisturisers can also be used after removal to prevent the skin from drying. Finally put the mould into the bin.
Reflection:
Overall, I was very proud of my work as it was my first time doing a cut using a mould. Sue gave me great feedback and said the wax is blended well into the skin. She also said the colouring of the actual cut is great itself however I could’ve applied more colour onto the rest of the arm to prevent it from looking stuck on.
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