Thomas, P. (no date) Early Victorian costume history 1837-1860. Available at:
http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1840's:
Women - '1840's fashion is characterised by low and sloping shoulders, a low pointed waist, and bell-shaped skirts that grew increasingly voluminous throughout the decade. Evening dresses were often off the shoulder. Hair was parted in the centre with ringlets at the side of the head, or styled with loops around the ears and pulled into a bun at the back of the head. Paisley or crochet shawls were fashionable accessories, as were linen caps with lace frills for indoor wear, and large bonnets for outdoors. Capes with large collars were fashionable.
Men - Very fashionable men sported low, tightly cinched waists, with rounded chests and flared frock-coats that gave them a rather hour-glass figure inspired by Prince Albert. They also wore tight trousers and waistcoats, with high upstanding collars and neckties tied around them. Hair was worn quite long, but swept to the sides. Moustaches and side-burns were popular.
1840's:
Women - '1840's fashion is characterised by low and sloping shoulders, a low pointed waist, and bell-shaped skirts that grew increasingly voluminous throughout the decade. Evening dresses were often off the shoulder. Hair was parted in the centre with ringlets at the side of the head, or styled with loops around the ears and pulled into a bun at the back of the head. Paisley or crochet shawls were fashionable accessories, as were linen caps with lace frills for indoor wear, and large bonnets for outdoors. Capes with large collars were fashionable.
Men - Very fashionable men sported low, tightly cinched waists, with rounded chests and flared frock-coats that gave them a rather hour-glass figure inspired by Prince Albert. They also wore tight trousers and waistcoats, with high upstanding collars and neckties tied around them. Hair was worn quite long, but swept to the sides. Moustaches and side-burns were popular.
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| Ensemble |
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| Dress |
History of fashion 1840 - 1900 - Victoria and Albert Museum (no date) Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1840-1900/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
(no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/508132770427836151/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1850's:
Women - In the 1850's, women's skirts were domed and bell-shaped, supported by crinoline petticoats. They often featured deep flounces or tiers. Long bloomers and pantaloons trimmed with lace were popular. Tiered cape-jackets were fashionable, as were paisley patterned shawls. Deep bonnets were worn and hair was swept into buns or side coils from a centre parting.
Men - Men wore matching coats, waistcoats and trousers, with hairstyles characterised by large mutton-chop side-burns and moustaches, after the style set by Prince Albert. Shirts had high upstanding collars and were tied at the neck with large bow-ties. High fastening and tight fitting frock coats were also very fashionable; though a new style called the sack coat (a thigh-length, loosely fitted jacket) became popular. The bowler hat was invented around 1850, but was generally seen as a working class hat, while top-hats were favoured by the upper classes.
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| Women's day dress |
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| 50's Men's attire |
(no date) Available at:
http://www.wornthrough.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/A8072.jpg (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Hilke, J. (no date) Landscape change program. Available at: https://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/1850s_clothing_men.php (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Hilke, J. (no date) Landscape change program. Available at: https://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/1850s_clothing_men.php (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1860's:
Women - 1860's women's dress featured tight bodices with high necks and buttoned fronts. White lace was popular for collars and cuffs, as were low sloping shoulders that flared out into wide sleeves. The skirt continued to be full and bell-shaped until around 1865 when it began to lose its volume at the front and move its emphasis towards the back. Hair was worn with a centre parting tied into low chignons at the nape of the neck, with loops or ringlets covering the ears. Ornaments for evening wear included floral wreaths, ostrich feathers, pomegranate flowers, wheatears and butterflies.
Men - In the 1860's it was fashionable for men's coats and jackets to be single-breasted and semi-fitted, extending to the mid thigh. Waistcoats were often collarless and single-breasted, and trousers were occasionally cut from a narrow check cloth. High, starched collars were worn with cravats and neck-ties. Hair was parted from the centre and moderately waved. A particular hairstyle, known as ‘Dundreary whiskers’ or ‘Piccadilly weepers’, was long pendant side-whiskers worn with a full beard and drooping moustache.
The Barrington house (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/566468459351037780/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Haslinger CDV Herrenportrait st Polten Osterreich 1860er (no date) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/166070304982144485/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1870's:
Women - 1870's women's fashion placed an emphasis on the back of the skirt, with long trains and fabric draped up into bustles with an abundance of flounces and ruching. The waist was lower in the 1870s than the 1860s, with an elongated and tight bodice and a flat fronted skirt. Low, square necklines were fashionable. Hair was dressed high at the back with complicated twists and rolls, falling to the shoulders, adorned with ribbons, bands and decorative combs. Hats were very small and tilted forward to the forehead. Later in the decade wider brimmed 'picture hats' were also worn, though still tilted forwards.
Men - Coats and jackets were semi-fitted and thigh-length. Generally, both jackets and waistcoats were buttoned high on the chest. Shirt collars were stiff and upstanding, with the tips turned down into wings. Hair was often worn parted in the centre, and most forms of facial hair were acceptable, though being clean shaven was rare.
404 not found (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/134896951309719977/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Victorian Mens fashion (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/explore/victorian-mens-fashion/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1880's:
Women - 1880's women's dress featured tightly fitting bodices with very narrow sleeves and high necklines, often trimmed at the wrists with white frills or lace. At the beginning of the decade the emphasis was at the back of the skirt, featuring ruching, flouncing, and embellishments such as bows and thick, rich fabrics and trims. The middle of the decade saw a brief revival of the bustle, which was so exaggerated that the derriere protruded horizontally from the small of the back. By the end of the decade the bustle disappeared. Hair was worn in tight, close curls on the top of the head. Hats and caps were correspondingly small and neat, to fit on top of the hairstyle.
Men - For men, lounge suits were becoming increasingly popular. They were often quite slim, and jackets were worn open or partially undone to reveal the high buttoning waistcoat and watch-chain. Collars were stiff and high, with their tips turned over into wings. Neckties were either the knotted 'four in hand', or versions of the bow-tie tied around the collar.
1880s women’s fashion (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/134896951308340597/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
How to dress Victorian | Victorian men in the 1880s (1920) Available at: http://www.victoriana.com/Fashion/victorianclothing/howtodressvictorianman.html (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1890's:
Women - In the early part of the decade, women wore tight bodices with high collars and narrow sleeves, much as they had done in the previous decade. From about 1893 however, sleeves started expanding into a leg-of-mutton shape, which was tight at the lower arm and puffed out at the upper arm. Wide shoulders were fashionable and horizontal decoration on the bodice further exaggerated the line. Skirts were worn in a full-length, simple A-line. Masculine styles and tailoring were increasingly popular, and women sometimes sported a shirt collar and tie, particularly when playing golf or out walking. Hair was worn high on top of the head, in tight curls. Hats were small or wide with lots of trimming, but generally worn squarely on top of the head.
Men - The three-piece lounge suit was very popular and regularly worn from the 1890's onwards, and it became increasingly common to have creases at the front of the trousers. Frock coats were still worn, but generally by older or more conservative men. Collars were starched and high, with the tips pressed down into wings, though by the end of the century collars were more frequently turned down and worn with the modern long, knotted tie style. Hair was cut short and usually parted at the side. Heavy moustaches were common, and older men still sported beards. Some men now went clean-shaven.
1890s fashion (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/explore/1890s-fashion/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Regency clothing for men at Gentlemans Emporium (no date) Available at: http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/mens-regency-era-clothing.php (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1900's:
Women - The S-bend corset was fashionable during the 1900's. It thrust the hips backwards and forced the chest forward into a fashionable pouter-pigeon shape, emphasised with puffed, frilly blouses that were often embellished with decorations like lace collars and broad ribbon ties. Separates were popular, with skirts fitted over the hip and fluted towards the hem. Hair was worn in a centre parting, often looped around pads and false hair to create a wide 'brim' of hair around the hairline. This hairstyle was worn under vast, broad-brim hats with low crowns, and adorned all over with flowers, lace, ribbons and feathers.
Men - Men wore three-piece lounge suits with bowler or cloth caps. Jackets were narrow with small, high lapels. Most collars were starched and upstanding, with the corners pointing downwards. Some men wore their collars turned down, with rounded edges and modern knotted ties. Beards were now reserved for mainly older men, and most young men sported neat moustaches and short hair.'
Women - 1860's women's dress featured tight bodices with high necks and buttoned fronts. White lace was popular for collars and cuffs, as were low sloping shoulders that flared out into wide sleeves. The skirt continued to be full and bell-shaped until around 1865 when it began to lose its volume at the front and move its emphasis towards the back. Hair was worn with a centre parting tied into low chignons at the nape of the neck, with loops or ringlets covering the ears. Ornaments for evening wear included floral wreaths, ostrich feathers, pomegranate flowers, wheatears and butterflies.
Men - In the 1860's it was fashionable for men's coats and jackets to be single-breasted and semi-fitted, extending to the mid thigh. Waistcoats were often collarless and single-breasted, and trousers were occasionally cut from a narrow check cloth. High, starched collars were worn with cravats and neck-ties. Hair was parted from the centre and moderately waved. A particular hairstyle, known as ‘Dundreary whiskers’ or ‘Piccadilly weepers’, was long pendant side-whiskers worn with a full beard and drooping moustache.
 |
| Scalloped hem detail dress |
The Barrington house (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/566468459351037780/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Haslinger CDV Herrenportrait st Polten Osterreich 1860er (no date) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/166070304982144485/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1870's:
Women - 1870's women's fashion placed an emphasis on the back of the skirt, with long trains and fabric draped up into bustles with an abundance of flounces and ruching. The waist was lower in the 1870s than the 1860s, with an elongated and tight bodice and a flat fronted skirt. Low, square necklines were fashionable. Hair was dressed high at the back with complicated twists and rolls, falling to the shoulders, adorned with ribbons, bands and decorative combs. Hats were very small and tilted forward to the forehead. Later in the decade wider brimmed 'picture hats' were also worn, though still tilted forwards.
Men - Coats and jackets were semi-fitted and thigh-length. Generally, both jackets and waistcoats were buttoned high on the chest. Shirt collars were stiff and upstanding, with the tips turned down into wings. Hair was often worn parted in the centre, and most forms of facial hair were acceptable, though being clean shaven was rare.
404 not found (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/134896951309719977/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Victorian Mens fashion (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/explore/victorian-mens-fashion/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1880's:
Women - 1880's women's dress featured tightly fitting bodices with very narrow sleeves and high necklines, often trimmed at the wrists with white frills or lace. At the beginning of the decade the emphasis was at the back of the skirt, featuring ruching, flouncing, and embellishments such as bows and thick, rich fabrics and trims. The middle of the decade saw a brief revival of the bustle, which was so exaggerated that the derriere protruded horizontally from the small of the back. By the end of the decade the bustle disappeared. Hair was worn in tight, close curls on the top of the head. Hats and caps were correspondingly small and neat, to fit on top of the hairstyle.
Men - For men, lounge suits were becoming increasingly popular. They were often quite slim, and jackets were worn open or partially undone to reveal the high buttoning waistcoat and watch-chain. Collars were stiff and high, with their tips turned over into wings. Neckties were either the knotted 'four in hand', or versions of the bow-tie tied around the collar.
 |
| 1887 afternoon dress |
1880s women’s fashion (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/134896951308340597/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
How to dress Victorian | Victorian men in the 1880s (1920) Available at: http://www.victoriana.com/Fashion/victorianclothing/howtodressvictorianman.html (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1890's:
Women - In the early part of the decade, women wore tight bodices with high collars and narrow sleeves, much as they had done in the previous decade. From about 1893 however, sleeves started expanding into a leg-of-mutton shape, which was tight at the lower arm and puffed out at the upper arm. Wide shoulders were fashionable and horizontal decoration on the bodice further exaggerated the line. Skirts were worn in a full-length, simple A-line. Masculine styles and tailoring were increasingly popular, and women sometimes sported a shirt collar and tie, particularly when playing golf or out walking. Hair was worn high on top of the head, in tight curls. Hats were small or wide with lots of trimming, but generally worn squarely on top of the head.
Men - The three-piece lounge suit was very popular and regularly worn from the 1890's onwards, and it became increasingly common to have creases at the front of the trousers. Frock coats were still worn, but generally by older or more conservative men. Collars were starched and high, with the tips pressed down into wings, though by the end of the century collars were more frequently turned down and worn with the modern long, knotted tie style. Hair was cut short and usually parted at the side. Heavy moustaches were common, and older men still sported beards. Some men now went clean-shaven.
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| Vintage Victorian dress |
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| Men's late Victorian clothing |
1890s fashion (no date) Available at:
https://uk.pinterest.com/explore/1890s-fashion/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Regency clothing for men at Gentlemans Emporium (no date) Available at: http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/mens-regency-era-clothing.php (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1900's:
Women - The S-bend corset was fashionable during the 1900's. It thrust the hips backwards and forced the chest forward into a fashionable pouter-pigeon shape, emphasised with puffed, frilly blouses that were often embellished with decorations like lace collars and broad ribbon ties. Separates were popular, with skirts fitted over the hip and fluted towards the hem. Hair was worn in a centre parting, often looped around pads and false hair to create a wide 'brim' of hair around the hairline. This hairstyle was worn under vast, broad-brim hats with low crowns, and adorned all over with flowers, lace, ribbons and feathers.
Men - Men wore three-piece lounge suits with bowler or cloth caps. Jackets were narrow with small, high lapels. Most collars were starched and upstanding, with the corners pointing downwards. Some men wore their collars turned down, with rounded edges and modern knotted ties. Beards were now reserved for mainly older men, and most young men sported neat moustaches and short hair.'
Linda and profile, V. my complete (2012) Subscribe to. Available at: http://devilinspiredgothicvictoria.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/early-1900-fashion-for-women.html (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
1890s in western fashion (2016) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1890s_in_Western_fashion#/media/File:Pearce_Bartlett.jpg (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Text reference - History of fashion 1900 - 1970 - Victoria and Albert Museum (1967) Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1900-1970/ (Accessed: 8 February 2016).
Victorian Costume - by Anne Buck (book):
Underwear - Chapter 6 - page 85 - 91:
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| Front cover |
'The garments worn beneath the dresses of the Victorian period are important because of their share
in producing the final effect of the dress. They also show an interesting development without reference to the to contemporary dress.
The garments may be divided into two groups: underlinen, the chemises and petticoats worn between skin and dress to protect each from the other, and at some periods to help support the dress; and the structural underwear, the corsets, bustles and crinolines which mould or extend the human form into the shape of fashion.
Corsets wore worn throughout the period and these corsets give the shape of the upper half of the dress. During the early Victorian era, the corsets were long, back-lacing, with gussets over the hips and for the breasts, and with shoulder straps. They were stiffly boned with whalebone and had a busk, long and about an inch and a half wide, in wood or whalebone, inserted at the centre front. During the late Victorian era, much shorter and more lightly boned corsets were worn, with the rising waistline of the dress. Front fastening was now general on a metal busk. Shoulder straps disappeared after the 1840's. Quilted corsets were worn in this period, and scarlet which appeared in petticoats and stockings, also penetrated the corset.
By 1875, long, tightly laced corsets were once more necessary to give the sheath-like fashionable shape, the foundation of the cuirass bodice. The busk lengthened, then widened the base and curved outwards, giving the 'spoon' busk characteristic of corsets of the 1880's and early 1890's. Corsets were strong in construction, with elaborate cutting in sections and boning, some being reinforced with bands of leather. They also became elegant, made in satin or figured silk, and many of this period were black, stitched in colours.
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| Page 86 |
Suspenders, were worn from the 1880's but weren't attached to the corset until the end of the century. Bustles were worn at the opening of the reign to support the fullness of the skirt. These were crescent shaped pads filled with down or stiff frills of strong cotton satin or twill, tied round the waist. As the skirts grew wider, support was given by increasing numbers of petticoats, stiffened by their corded weave. Linen was the usual material of underwear at the beginning of the period, although cotton was also used.
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| Page 88 |
Children's Fashion - Chapter 20 - pages 202 - 216:
The dress of children (ages 3-16) were related in different ways to adult fashion. The dress of the girls from the beginning of the reign to the 1890's was mostly a series of smaller, simpler versions of the styles worn by their mothers. The dress of the boys diverged more from the dress of their fathers than that of the girls from their mothers. The tunics worn by boys in the middle of the 19th century, and the visible ankle length drawers of little girls at the beginning of the period, were fashions of children only.
Boys as well as girls wore short frocks, with low neckline and short sleeves. Many of these frocks were made of white cotton. In the 1850's and 60's, they had a full skirt and were embroidered in the large white openwork. They were worn with bows of ribbon on the shoulder and sashes, sometimes round the waist, sometimes over the shoulder.
Boys - at the beginning of the period, small boys put on long trousers when they left off their frocks. With the trousers, they wore a short round jacket and a waistcoat or a longer tunic. After 1850, the short jacket was the usual form. It had the slight basques in the 1840's and 1850's but became shorter and was open in front, fastening only at the neck. For everyday wear, the boys wore blouses usually with a belt and sometimes with a diagonal fastening.
In the 1860's, Knickerbocker suits replaced trousers. They either hung straight, the trousers cut short, or they were gathered at the knee. They were worn with the same style jacket. After the age of ten, long trousers were often worn and the short jackets were replaced with longer ones.
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| Page 203 |
Girls - the dress of the girls at the beginning of the reign had the lengthening and pointed waistline and the full skirt of women's fashion. The trimming often made the same V-shaped lines over the bodice. The skirt was shorter, ending well above the ankles. During the 1840's and 50's, the skirts became wider and more ornamented with frills of openwork embroidery, but shorter (however never above the knee).
Sleeves at the beginning of the period were very short. The neckline was often very low on the shoulder. Many dresses of the 1850's had a matching cape or jacket. In the 1860's, skirts and blouses were worn. The dress of girls continued to follow that of women during the 1870's and 80's, showing in miniature the over-skirts, the looped and bustle effects of the early 70's, the straight-fronted dress with pleating and bows at the centre back in the 80's.'
Book reference - Buck, A.M. and Wakefield, H. (1970) Victorian costume and costume accessories (the Victorian collector series). New York: Universe Books.
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| Page 204 |
Book reference - Buck, A.M. and Wakefield, H. (1970) Victorian costume and costume accessories (the Victorian collector series). New York: Universe Books.
Inline Citations: (Buck and Wakefield, 1970)
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