Technical - Ageing

Ageing is the process of becoming older. As you get older, you will form wrinkles on your face and body. ‘Wrinkles are creases, folds or ridges in the skin. The first wrinkles to appear on our face tend to occur as a result of facial expressions. Sun damage, smoking, dehydration, some medications, as well as a number of other factors may also cause wrinkles to develop. (Wrinkles may also develop after the skin has been immersed in water for a long time).

When were young we don’t have wrinkles as the skin does a good job of stretching and holding in moisture. The dermis has an elastic quality thanks to fibres called elastin that keep the skin feeling young. A protein in the dermis called collagen also plays a part in preventing wrinkles. As we age, the dermis loses both collagen and elastin, so skin gets thinner and has trouble getting enough moisture to the epidermis. This results to the epidermis sagging, therefore forming wrinkles.

Even though wrinkles can give people an aspect of wisdom, most people do not welcome them. Billions of dollars are spent globally on treatments to get rid of them. Some make great claims but have no effect, while others either have moderate, significant or very considerable success. Most basic wrinkle treatments, if they have any effect, tend to help reduce the fine lines. For deeper creases more aggressive techniques are required, such as plastic surgery or injections (fillers).

Most wrinkles tend to appear in the parts of the body which receive the most sun exposure, including the back of the hands, the face, neck and tops of forearms. There are two main types of wrinkles, including surface lines and deep furrows.’

What are wrinkles? (2013) Available at: 

http://kidshealth.org/en/kids/wrinkles.html (Accessed: 21 February 2016).

What are wrinkles? What causes wrinkles? (2009) Available at: http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/174852.php (Accessed: 21 February 2016).

Famuboni, D., Wilkinson-Priest, G., Buisson, K. Du and Magee, A. (2015) Anti-Ageing archives. Available at: http://www.healthista.com/category/looks/anti-ageing-looks/ (Accessed: 21 February 2016).

Technical lesson one:

Model name: Lia
Skin type: combination
Skin tone: medium skin with yellow undertones
Natural eyes/contacts: natural eyes
Allergies: none
Medication: none
Any open wounds/scars, cuts etc.: none

Required products/materials: cleanser, toner, moisturiser, cotton pads, Kryolan Pro shield barrier foam, liquid latex, hairdryer, stipple sponge, Kryolan camouflage concealer palette and makeup brushes.

What is liquid latex?

This is liquid rubber used to create wrinkles, ageing effects, burns, masks, casts, wounds and artificial skin. It can also be used to apply crepe hair, theatrical prosthetics and glue appliances made of wax, silicone or foam to the body. Latex must be stored in an airtight container as it dries when in contact with air. When dry, it forms a supple, transparent film. Latex should not be used on areas with cuts and grazes as the latex milk is ammonia-based and gives of strong vapours which can cause irritation and itchiness. If this happens, the product must be immediately removed. It also shouldn’t be applied anywhere near the eyes.

Wet latex can be removed with a cloth/tissue and dried latex can be rubbed off using the fingers. Always use disposable soapy wet brushes to apply latex as it makes the hairs stick together on normal ones. The soap however prevents them from drying. Latex also doesn’t wash off clothes and tends the block the drains when poured into the sink.

What other types of latex do we have?

We have latex foam which is a multi-component latex compound. It expands into foam when combined, often used for moulding. It also hardens when backed in an oven. The moulds must always be treated with a separator before use. Foam latex is durable, doesn’t dissolve or melt and absorbs sweat. It is very soft, flexible and comfortable to wear as it will move with the wearer’s expressions, meaning the wearer can eat, drink and wear makeup for long periods. Making prosthetic appliances with this material can be very difficult as it requires professionalism, and special tools/equipment in order for it to be done precisely. Foam latex is normally made to be worn once however if you treat it with care, you can reuse, re-glue and re-colour it.

There’s also latex thickener. This is a gel which when mixed with latex, can be used to increase its density to make it thicker and more resistant. It is often used to create masks, prosthetics and moulds. It tends to reduce the elasticity and durability of latex. The compound material dries much quicker into a white colour than pure latex. This product is low cost, simple to use, reusable, strong and resilient. It is also ideal for slip-casting. Only about 10% of the thickener should be used to make a brushing mix. Four layers will make a considerable mould for a mask.

Step-by-step guide:

Before starting the practical, I set up my station and got rid of any bags, scarves and coats that were in the way for health and safety reasons. I then placed a towel around my model again for hygienic, health and safety reasons. Next, I cleansed her. This is an essential part of basic skin care routine used to wipe of the oil, makeup and dirt off the face to leave the skin looking clean and tight. I applied a bit of cleanser onto a cotton pad, and gently wiped it on the face. I then toned her face. I always do this after cleansing to shrink pores, give the skin pH balance, remove any dirt the cleanser didn’t and hydrate the skin. Again I applied a bit of toner onto a cotton pad, and gently wiped it on the face. The last part of the cleansing routine is to moisturise the face to smoothen/silken it. This method is good for those especially with dry skin in order to hydrate it. I did this using my hands. (Make sure they’re clean!)


Moving onto the wrinkles, I first applied the Kryolan Pro shield barrier foam on the eye area and the back of the hands as that is where is I wish to apply the latex. 'The Pro shield is a multipurpose foam protecting the skin from extreme influences. It is meant to be applied before working with affecting materials or applying special effects products. It is formulated with shea butter, almond oil and Aloe Vera to nurture the skin.'

Barrier cream is different to moisturiser as it’s non-greasy. (Note that when doing wounds, it’s best not to apply moisturiser on the skin).

WRITE YOUR REVIEW (no date) Available at: 

http://www.alconeco.com/kryolan-pro-shield-barrier-foam (Accessed: 21 February 2016).

Before applying latex onto anyone’s skin, you must test it on their hand/arm first to see if they show any allergic reaction at least a week before. You should do this with any product that is slightly chemically involved. Even if your client insists they aren’t allergic to anything, you should still carry out this action for health and safety reasons. If they do show an allergic reaction, take the product off immediately and rinse area with water. (We had already done this before our technical lesson). Also ensure to read the label on all products to see what they contain.

I poured a small amount of liquid latex into a bowl, and dipped a black stipple sponge into it to apply where I placed the barrier cream. It’s best to use cheap brushes or sponges when working with latex as you don’t want to ruin any of your favourite beauty ones. When working on the eye area, make sure your models eyes are closed. Stretch the area you wish to apply the latex on using your fingers. Once you’ve stippled one layer of the latex (ensure it’s thin), dry the latex using a hairdryer. Before drying someone’s face, test the dryer on your neck to make sure it’s cool. Also remember to keep a distance when drying your models face as the latex may flood.

After it’s completely dry, (you’d know as the white latex turns translucent) you must release the skin (the area you were stretching). You may want to add translucent powder on top of this however this is completely optional. Repeat the same process again, adding another layer of latex using the same stipple sponge. Remember the skin needs to be stretched in the opposite direction you want your wrinkle to appear e.g. if you want vertical wrinkles, stretch the skin horizontally. In order to get rid of hard edges, I dipped a cotton bud into acetone as this melts the latex and gently went over any harsh areas I wanted to be feathered out.

After you’re happy with your layers (I did three), you can pick the latex with your fingers to achieve dry skin. You may also want to emphasise your wrinkles using colour. The face and hands are always variated colours therefore you should stipple the colour rather than apply it completely. I used D14 and D15 from the Kryolan camouflage concealer palette and a thin eyeliner brush. I applied this onto the wrinkles e.g. the laughing lines and blended it out using my fingers. Ensure not to draw harsh lines or dots as this doesn’t look natural.
To remove the latex, you can gently peel the layers off however it’s advised to wash it off with warm water. When emptying your bowl, do not pour it into the sink as it’ll block it. Get a tissue instead, and rub the product out of the bowl.

Reflection:

I wasn't so happy with the results of my work. I found it difficult to stretch the skin whilst applying the liquid latex. I achieved more of a dry effect, than wrinkles. I also found that when I was drying the latex, it was peeling off. It almost looked like dried DUO. Next time I do ageing, I must make sure I stretch the skin as much as I can and apply more layers as I only did three. I could also get my model to help me with the stretching to make the application easier. 

Key notes (taken in class):

• Don't apply latex onto hairy areas, as it hurts a lot when removing.
• When working with latex, base makeup often tends to wipe out therefore it's best to apply makeup after you're done using the latex. 
• Always cover your model as you may spill latex onto their clothing. Latex does not wash out.
• You can mix latex in with colours e.g. powders or eye-shadows. 
• Make sure you place the latex lid back on as the product may spill or dry out. 
• It's often advised to use a stipple sponge when working with latex as brushes may give you hard edges.